The yak hoof is very much like the hooves of other cattle, with a couple of exceptions. The yak is smaller than other standard breeds, so likewise the hooves will be a little smaller. Also, the yaks on my ranch seem to grow hoof faster than other cattle.
The first diagram (from Zinpro Corporation’s Illustrated Handbook on Cattle Lameness) shows the anatomy of the hoof. It is important to understand how the hoof is structured before you start to trim.
The second diagram (from Cattle Footcare and Claw Trimming) shows what a normal hoof may look like when it is overgrown. The normal length of a mature yak female hoof is about 7 centimeters, or about 2 ¾ inches, long. This is measured from the coronary band to the tip of the toe. Notice in the second diagram the line indicating what hoof is to be removed. It is all toe, and it tapers to nothing when you get back to the heel. Most often you will need to remove all toe and no heel from the hoof. It is easy to cut too much heel and not enough toe, so be careful to cut the hoof so that the bottom of it is level and square when you are finished.
If the yak is in pasture, normally the sole is exfoliated and does not need to be pared. If the yak is in a corral and doesn’t get much exercise, the sole may need to be pared with a hoof knife.
The three tools that you will need are a good hoof nipper, a hoof knife, and a hoof rasp. The nipper should be the most expensive of the three, and it is most important that it be of high quality. You can tell a good nipper by how thin the jaws are. The cheaper nipper has thicker jaws and will be hard to cut through the hoof at the toe. A good quality farrier’s nipper will cost between $70 and $150.
Your First Cut
First measure down 7 centimeters from the coronary band and mark that spot. Next use the nipper to cut the extra hoof at the tip of the toe. If the hoof was on the ground, this would be a vertical cut. Now with your nipper you can start at the toe and taper back to the heel. Each time you make another cut, use only half of the nipper blade to cut new hoof, and use the other half left in the last cut to guide you along in a straight line. Finish leveling the hoof with the rasp on the bottom side, and then go around the edge of the hoof to remove sharp horn.
How to Restrain the Yak Hoof
I will presume that you do not have a professional hoof trimming chute or table. A headgate is very helpful in restraining the yak. One technique is to pick up the foot as a horseshoer would and put it between your legs. If you have just a few yak that you own or show this may work well. The more often they are trimmed, the better they will behave. If you have many yak and it is not always the same ones that get trimmed, this technique may not work and you could even get injured trying it. Instead, for the front feet you can tie a rope to the hoof and loop it over an overhead beam. For the back feet, you can fasten a 2” x 4” about 18 inches off of the ground and 18 inches behind the yak. This 2” x 4” will need to be fastened solidly. Then tie the hind foot to the bottom of the 2” x 4”. This leaves both of your hands free to do the trimming and can work quite well.
The basic trimming of a normal hoof is easy enough to understand. However, trimming a hoof that is twisted and not normal is quite another thing. For further information on cattle hoof trimming, I recommend that you read Cattle Footcare and Claw Trimming, by E. Toussaint Raven.
Good luck, and be safe.
John Hooper, Yakman
31 years as a professional hoof trimmer
